Anciela SS27

Credits: Marcus Hartelt

For SS27, London-based sustainable luxury womenswear label ANCIELA looked at the relationship between mother and daughter, a special relationship shaped by care, protection and the passing down of knowledge, but also one that can carry complexity, tension and trauma. This became a metaphor for our connection with Mother Earth, and a way of asking how fashion can play a role in addressing environmental challenges.

The work followed a thread of past, present and future, considering what we can learn from the past, how we respond to the challenges of the present and what we need to create a more resilient future. These ideas were reflected in the brand’s adaptive approach to tailoring. Adjustable panels and detachable sleeves allowed pieces to be changed, while layers interconnect, tie and knot around the body, adapting to movement and shape.

Credits: Marcus Hartelt

Materials brought together vintage silk donated by artist Allegra Hicks, rescued wool suiting from Orsola de Castro and deadstock cottons with certified Tencel and recycled cotton. ANCIELA also introduced next-generation materials through collaborations with material innovators.

AlgaFila, a fibre made from seaweed extract, air and nanotechnology, was used across knitwear and padded garments. Lightweight and thermally insulating, it offers an alternative to standard padding and yarns. Garments and accessories were also made using Savigne by Planet of the Grapes, an animal-free, plant-based leather alternative created from pressed grape skins, stalks and seeds left over from winemaking. The material is sourced directly from organic and biodynamic vineyards in Provence, South of France.

Abstract fern motifs, inspired by the layered darkness of the jungle and deep forest, were created using a black bio-based pigment developed by Octarine, a synthetic biology platform focused on developing low-impact solutions inspired by nature. These material collaborations are an important part of ANCIELA’s approach, creating opportunities to explore how fashion can support innovation, education and the exchange of knowledge.

Credits: Marcus Hartelt

The ideas explored through the clothes extended into a multidisciplinary presentation bringing together fashion, material innovation, installation and live performance, supported by The Mills Fabrica and Endurance Land.

An immersive exhibition explored the relationship between materials, sound and the natural world. At its centre was the interactive Upcycled Sound Cocoon, crafted from reclaimed foam, wadding and fabric offcuts collected over five years from ANCIELA’s studio and first presented at the Design Museum in 2025. The installation was accompanied by a new sonic composition by artist Yasmin Rai.

Together, the works invited guests to engage with the material processes behind the work and reflect on the interconnectedness of ecological systems, from the hidden life of soil to the changing landscapes of the Amazon.

A live performance, directed by filmmaker Marie Lanna with artist Luzmira Zerpa, accompanied the presentation. Divided into three acts, it explored ancestry, connection, transformation and regeneration.

Credits: Marcus Hartelt

The multidisciplinary approach reflected ANCIELA’s wider commitment to using fashion as a platform for sustainability and education. Since its foundation, the brand has developed installations, augmented reality experiences, performances, workshops and panel discussions designed to encourage more conscious engagement between makers, consumers and the wider fashion industry.