Roberto Cavalli Spring/ Summer 2027: The Woman Who Lights Up the Night
The Roberto Cavalli woman has never needed to wait until evening to dress as though the night has already begun. That is why the house’s show is among the ones I most look forward to at Milan Fashion Week. I want to see how far Fausto Puglisi will take the pleasure, irreverence and beauty that make a garment feel ready to acquire a story of its own.
For Spring/Summer 2027, he imagined Los Angeles. Its almost unreal light washes over a collection of prints layered like memories of different places: leopard, tiger, flowers, tattoos, python. Puglisi sends them across chiffon, satin and jersey; cuts printed tulle into strips and stitches it back together; takes denim apart and gives it another life. On the jeans, appliqué and trompe-l’œil prints make the eye pause between image and texture. This is a show that rewards curiosity.
The silhouettes share that restless spirit. There are weightless dresses, asymmetric tops, stretch pieces that trace the body and Neapolitan tailored blazers capable of changing the mood of everything they meet. I particularly love the encounter between a blazer and a fluid dress: one holds the line while the other insists on dancing. Puglisi has done wonderful work in treating the Cavalli archive as something alive. The taste for 2000s excess is unmistakable, yet these clothes have the energy of women who intend to wear them now.
The house’s sensuality lives in those moments of movement. In fabric following the curve of a hip. In a transparency that appears only when the light changes. In a woman who knows what her dress reveals when she turns around.
Izabel Goulart, a Brazilian model I have long admired, brought that last idea beyond the runway. Among the guests, she wore a long black dress with the finest straps, an understated sheen and a line that defined her waist before falling more freely through the skirt. At first glance, it was elegance at its most assured. Then Izabel turned: a deeply open back, crossed by delicate straps, became the look’s defining detail. Her voluminous hair and discreet sandals allowed the dress to speak. She knew exactly when to reveal its finest moment.
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Looking at the collection and at Izabel, I return to what has always drawn me to Cavalli. Puglisi offers prints, cuts, fabrics and possibilities in abundance. The provocation begins when a woman decides what to do with them.
