Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2026: A Dialogue Between Legacy and Modernity

Paris Fashion Week witnessed more than a Saint Laurent show. Under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the Spring Summer 2026 collection reaffirmed the maison’s essence, creating a conversation between heritage and the present moment. At a time when dialogue feels increasingly rare, Vaccarello transforms style into language. The collection does not shout, it connects. It does not impose an image, it invites reflection on what it means to be a woman, to be free, and to inhabit one’s body with awareness and elegance.

The setting was breathtaking. The Eiffel Tower glowed in the background while the runway, a reproduction of the iconic YSL Cassandre logo, was covered with white hydrangeas, a poetic union of delicacy and strength that perfectly reflected the spirit of the collection.

Revisiting La Rive Gauche

Inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 collection, when he became one of the pioneers of prêt à porter, Vaccarello reinterpreted the maison’s classic trench coats in leather and gabardine. The silhouettes were minimalist, with defined waists and structured shoulders. Dresses appeared in the maison’s signature light nylon fabrics, bringing fluidity and movement to the looks.

Ties Between Generations

The iconic pussy bow blouses, one of Yves Saint Laurent’s most beloved symbols, returned in cotton with exaggerated proportions. They appeared around the neck or extended to the waist. The cuffs were equally dramatic, worn open and paired with sharply cut pencil skirts to balance the volumes. A striking statement of style and attitude.

Accessories in the Spotlight

More than simple jewels, the accessories were true works of art. Vaccarello found inspiration in Yves Saint Laurent’s symbolic heart, once described by the designer as “Le coeur est le fil conducteur de toute ma vie”. Oversized heart shaped earrings and necklaces appeared alongside crosses and flowers adorned with crystals, transforming the accessories into protagonists of the show.

A Modern Victorian

To close the presentation, ethereal gowns paid tribute to Yves Saint Laurent’s haute couture heritage. Vaccarello drew from designs created by the founder for Nan Kempner, Hélène Rochas and Jane Birkin for the Bal Proust, hosted by Marie Hélène de Rothschild in 1971. The dresses featured layers of ruffles and light puffed sleeves, slightly transparent and floating as if made of air. Romantic yet strong, they embodied the idea that power and delicacy can exist in perfect harmony.

Vaccarello’s Vision of Elegant Maximalism

Vaccarello’s creative lens goes beyond nostalgia. He plays with proportions and builds bridges between Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy and the contemporary world, embracing colour, contrast and duality. In his Saint Laurent, princesses wear leather and are not afraid to shine with crown like jewels.

For Vaccarello, clothing is both a visual and symbolic expression. Beauty, in his universe, is diverse and infinite.