48 Hours in Vienna: A City That Deserves More
Vienna was not on my bucket list. I will admit that. Despite being one of Europe’s most visited capitals, it had never caught my attention in the past. My school memories of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Habsburgs, Empress Sisi, Mozart, and the sparks of the First World War felt basic at best, more textbook than dream destination. But when Austria became the substitute for another trip, I penciled Vienna in for just 48 hours. That was my first mistake. Even without sleep, the city has far more to offer than two days can hold.
Vienna is elegant, classic, and surprisingly versatile, a city that caters to every taste and every budget. Its culinary scene is as rich as its imperial palaces: from street sausages to Wiener Schnitzels and the local beers that pair perfectly with them. Wine lovers can venture to the vineyards on the city’s edge for tastings, or simply settle into one of the many wine bars downtown. Coffee here is more than a drink; it is a ritual, best experienced in the city’s historic cafés. And then there are the cakes, an indulgence not to be missed. (Yes, gluten-free options exist, though not everywhere, so plan ahead. Tip: Mocarello Caffé & Bar offers excellent gluten-free cakes that rival the classics.)
If you have specific restaurants in mind, make reservations. I learned that the hard way. I missed out on dining at Kias Kitchen, a Brazilian gem in Vienna featured in the 2025 Gault et Millau list. I was dreaming of its sun-dried meat risotto with cassava starters. Lesson learned: Vienna rewards the organized.
Day One: First Impressions
I arrived around noon and headed straight to my hotel. Thank you, Prize by Radisson, Vienna City, for the warm stay. Just 350 meters from the main train station, it is a stylish base that spares you the overpriced and overcrowded city center hotels while keeping everything within reach. Bags dropped, shower taken, and I was off to meet a friend by the Vienna State Opera.
From there, we walked to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, whose interior is well worth the visit. Nearby, I stumbled into a sweet slice of Austrian tradition at the Manner store, famous for its pink packaging and Original Neapolitan Wafers, a national obsession since 1898. Sadly, no gluten-free versions exist.
We continued our stroll through the historic center, past Vienna’s best-known landmarks, stopping for a quick bite at Leberkas-Pepi Wien Operngasse, where I sampled their famous meatloaf sandwich. It was affordable, fast, and thankfully with gluten-free options. Later, I discovered one of Vienna’s few rooftops, surprisingly located atop an IKEA store, offering a quirky city view.
Dinner, however, was the highlight: Gasthaus Zum Wohl, a rare gem where the entire menu is 100% gluten-free. Between a refreshing mint-ginger lemonade, a very tasty gluten free beer and finally tasting the city’s iconic Wiener Schnitzel without worry, I left feeling both grateful and impressed.
Day Two: A Brush with History and Art
The next morning began with the Sisi Museum. As someone fascinated by Empress Elisabeth’s longing for freedom, I could not skip it. Despite booking ahead, the museum was overcrowded, tourists armed with selfie sticks and audio guides made it a challenge to navigate. Still, I caught glimpses of the objects and stories I wanted to see most.
What struck me most was how Elisabeth, better known as Sisi, was far from the passive figure of legend. She was fiercely active, training her body obsessively through riding, gymnastics, and hiking. She also wrote poetry, often filled with reflections on her desire for freedom and her deep discomfort with the rigid rules of court life. These fragments reveal her as a woman ahead of her time, struggling to reconcile her role as empress with her yearning for independence.
From there, I wandered along the Danube river, snapped countless graffiti shots, admired the soaring Votivkirche, walked past Vienna University, and made my way to the Schloss Belvedere. Like everyone else, I joined the crowd waiting to glimpse The Kiss, Gustav Klimt’s luminous masterpiece. The moment was both chaotic and unforgettable.
Since I had booked my ticket in advance, I also explored other areas of the Belvedere. The museum’s collection is vast and impressive. I was captivated by Jacques-Louis David’s portrait of Napoleon Crossing the Alps, and completely taken aback by the original copy of the 1955 Austrian State Treaty, a defining document of modern Austrian history. Standing before it felt like stepping into the very moment Austria reclaimed its sovereignty.
Dinner that evening had to make up for my missed opportunity at Kias Kitchen. I ended up at Pizzeria Osteria da Giovanni, a cozy spot with genuinely good gluten-free pizza. I managed to get a table without a reservation, though for bigger groups it is definitely worth booking ahead. The atmosphere was relaxed, and the pizza made for the perfect farewell to my 48 hours in Vienna.
Vienna may not have been on my bucket list, but it proved to be a city that quickly earns its place there. Two days were enough to fall under its spell, but not nearly enough to do it justice. Vienna is a city to return to, and next time I will stay longer.
