A Cosy Country Escape: A Night at The Fish Hotel
The drive from London to the Cotswolds always feels like peeling back layers of noise: motorway hum gives way to smaller roads, then country lanes with hedgerows, fields, and trees thickening until you’re surrounded by nothing but golden leaves and distant ridges. For us, that drive to The Fish Hotel—high up on Fish Hill in the Farncombe Estate, above Broadway—took just under two hours. The route winds along the M40, then the A424 + A44, and the moment you round the final bend and spot the valley below, you remember why you left the city behind.
Tucked away within 500 acres of peaceful countryside, The Fish sits high above Broadway, surrounded by woodland and sweeping views. It’s surprisingly accessible too—just around 90 minutes from London if you take the train to Moreton-in-Marsh and hop in a taxi for the final stretch through winding country lanes. However you arrive, the moment you reach the estate, everything slows down.
We stayed in one of the Hideaway Huts—beautifully handcrafted shepherd’s huts, designed to be cosy without being cramped. Ours had a wood-burning stove, a roll-top bath, an en-suite shower, and best of all, a private hot tub outside with views into the trees. You could stay in here all weekend and be perfectly content.
But the estate calls you outdoors. After checking in, we wandered out onto one of the nature trails that loop through the grounds. The path took us through quiet woods and open meadows, past some wildlife and lovely viewpoints with swinging benches to admire the view. The air was cool and smelled faintly of leaves and woodsmoke.
There’s no shortage of ways to spend time here—archery, axe-throwing, falconry, duck herding (yes, really), tractor driving, tennis and much more. It’s the kind of place where you can do as much, or as little, as you like. We stuck to the simple pleasures: walking, eating, soaking. But we passed others with bows in hand, dogs bounding alongside, or heading off toward the falconry field with excited anticipation.
Back at the hut, the hot tub was waiting. After a walk through rustling leaves, easing into the warmth with the sky above us was pure bliss. The sun was still out, slanting low through the trees. There wasn’t a sound but the soft bubbling of water and the occasional bird overhead.
Dinner that evening was at Hook, the on-site restaurant. The space is airy yet intimate, with different areas offering their own distinct ambience—whether you prefer a quiet corner, a table near the open kitchen, or even a relaxed space for dog owners, complete with comfy seats for both humans and their four-legged companions. We started with a crisp, golden fritto misto—trout, cod, mussels, and squid—served with a sweet chilli dipping sauce, alongside a plate of miso-glazed cauliflower with seasonal greens. Both dishes were vibrant and full of flavour. For mains, we chose a comforting tomato risotto and the fish of the day: monkfish tail with kale, new potatoes, and a beautifully layered kafta-style spice blend made with 27 ingredients. Every plate felt thoughtful, seasonal, and deeply satisfying.
Later, we curled up in the hut’s cosy little lounge space, fire flickering, glass of wine in hand, and absolutely no plans but to watch something light and drift toward sleep. The bed was like a cloud, and the kind of silence you get out here—true silence—is something you notice in your bones.
We woke up slowly the next morning. With checkout not until 11, there was time for one more soak in the hot tub, one more coffee while wrapped in a blanket, watching the sunlight creep across the trees. Breakfast was relaxed and generous—good coffee, warm pastries, full-cooked options if you’re hungry, and fresh fruit if you prefer something lighter.
Although we only stayed one night, it felt like we'd had a full reset. The Fish isn’t flashy or fussy—it’s thoughtful, relaxed, and a little bit whimsical in the best way. With treehouses, huts, and more traditional rooms to choose from (many dog-friendly), it’s a place that somehow suits all kinds of travellers.
What we found was that the magic came from the contrast: wild outdoor space paired with the cosiness of your own hideaway. Walks and archery by day, wine and warm baths by night. And in autumn, with the leaves falling and the air turning crisp, there’s nowhere better.
We left rested, fed, and already thinking about when we might return.
Highly recommended.
