High Standards, Higher Stands: The Best Afternoon Tea in London
I like to think of myself as something of a cake tasting expert. In truth, anyone can judge a scone on taste alone. What separates a truly great afternoon tea from a good one is everything around it, the decor, the presentation, the service, the venue itself.
It is a whole experience, one that has been quietly perfected since Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, first complained of a sinking feeling and ordered tea and cake to her room back in 1840.
Nearly two centuries on, London still does it better than anywhere else, and I am very glad the tradition has never gone out of fashion.
Over the past weeks I visited five of the capital's finest to find out who does it best.
1. The Franklin, Knightsbridge
Starting strong - the hotel combined two of the best attractions in London - afternoon tea and theatre. The Franklin's Wicked Wizard Afternoon Tea commits fully to both the theme and the taste.
Inspired by Wicked, it takes you from the plains of Kansas to the technicolour wonder of Oz without ever leaving Knightsbridge.
I was greeted at my table by a small tin man, which set the tone for an afternoon where every detail had clearly been considered.
The savouries were delightfully classic, with a chargrilled chicken sandwich and a homemade pan brioche with fresh winter black truffle among the highlights, but the sweets were where the theatrical creativity really came alive.
The Lion's lemon meringue tart was perfectly fluffy. The Tin Man's tiramisu was rich without being heavy, and The Scarecrow's chocolate mousse ice cream was the sort of thing I wish I had the culinary skills to recreate, but I am no match for the pastry chefs in The Franklin.
The staff could not have been more accommodating, and a recommendation from one team member sent me down an oolong orange tea rabbit hole, two pots deep before I knew it.
The hotel's classic, elegant design offers a surprisingly serene backdrop, with views over a garden that feels a world away from the bustle of Knightsbridge, despite being a few steps from Harrods.
Best for: Theatre lovers and anyone who wants their afternoon tea to tell a story.
2. Lilli by Akira Back, Montcalm Mayfair
If The Franklin is about storytelling, Lilli by Akira Back at Montcalm Mayfair is about pure, understated luxury.
The Into the Garden Afternoon Tea draws on Georgian botanicals and the legacy of florist Constance Spry, and the room does the concept justice, with lush interiors and an impressive art collection that make it feel like one of Mayfair's best kept secrets.
I was welcomed with a glass of champagne, and very friendly staff who took time to talk me through an extensive range of teas from Camellia's Tea House, a family run business whose loose leaf blends are a genuine highlight of the experience. Here you get a chance to see and smell over 20 samples, and decide what you’d like to start with.
The food leans into tradition with a knowing twist, including Dressed Crab Brioche Rolls and a reimagined Coronation Chicken Sandwich, a nod to Spry herself, who is credited with creating the original for the Queen's coronation luncheon.
A Matcha Opera cake rounded things off with quiet elegance. What stood out most, though, was the service. Our servers were exceptionally friendly and welcoming throughout, never once making the experience feel stiff or overly formal despite the obvious grandeur of the setting.
Best for: Those who want to feel thoroughly spoiled, and those wanting to experience one of the most luxurious afternoon teas Mayfair has to offer.
3. Afternoon Sea, The Mayfair Chippy
I never thought I’d be so excited to visit a restaurant that doesn’t specialise in cakes, but The Mayfair Chippy in Knightsbridge was really that outstanding.
The Afternoon Sea swaps finger sandwiches for a seafood spread so good looking that other diners kept approaching our table to take pictures.
We started with marinated olives and anchovies, sourdough with smoked cod roe, and hand cut crisps that vanished in minutes.
Then the main spread: Cornish crab on toast, treacle cured salmon, pickled cockles, crab claws, king prawns, oysters and mussels. All beautifully presented, and there was plenty of it.
The usual cups of tea took the bench as a glass of Balfour Leslie's sparkling rose was a better pairing for the seafood spread. However, I did have the most perfectly prepared flat white at the end of the meal - which was needed after such a delightful feast.
By dessert we were too full to do it justice, but still shared three mini puddings: a chocolate mousse, a burnt English cream and an Eton mess. Light, and the perfect way to finish.
The atmosphere is relaxed and fun, and being right across from Harrods makes it an easy stop on a Knightsbridge afternoon.
Best for: Seafood lovers who still want the full afternoon tea experience, minus the scones.
4. Afternoon Tea, Royal Lancaster London
A Blooming British Afternoon Tea arrived with a cause attached, created in collaboration with the Natural History Museum to celebrate the pollinators that keep our gardens, and our food supply, going.
I had already fallen for Royal Lancaster London after a fantastic meal at its restaurant Tortello, so expectations were high, and the hotel did not disappoint.
The staff talked us thoughtfully through a new honey menu before guiding us through their sparkling tea collection. I sampled two, which were so refreshing and a great drink to make you feel like you are having a champagne experience when you do not want to drink. There is still however an extensive list of hot tea options, with the Spiced Winter Tea being my favourite.
The sandwiches leaned into the floral theme with maize fed chicken and bee pollen, and smoked salmon with capers and dill cream cheese, while the sweet selection carried the pollinator story through to the end, with a honey cake Beehive, a pecan tart and a coffee and chocolate gateau that rounded things off beautifully.
The hotel has kept beehives on its roof since 2009, and that commitment shows in a menu that feels genuinely considered rather than simply themed for the season.
It’s a reminder that the best afternoon teas tell you something about the place serving them, not just about what is on the stand.
Best for: Those who love to support a cause while enjoying an indulgent experience.
5. Celestial Afternoon Tea, The Milestone Hotel
Although all the venues will make you feel pampered, being in The Milestone hotel, which sits directly opposite Kensington Palace, makes you feel like you are a member of the royal family yourself.
The Celestial Afternoon Tea takes its cue from the hotel's newly redesigned Family Suite, where a hand painted ceiling mural turns a children's bedroom into a starlit sky, and translates that same wonder into an elegant spread of sandwiches, scones and celestial inspired pastries.
The sweets leaned fully into the theme, from a Constellation macaron with spiced apple and caramelia chocolate ganache to a Moon dessert of Nyangbo chocolate and popcorn mousse dotted with space rocks, alongside a blackberry and almond Galaxy tart.
The real highlight, though, was the tea. We were guided through the full elemental range, Earth, Air, Fire and Water, with staff explaining which blends suited the savoury courses and which were better saved for dessert.
We paired our sandwiches with a glass of Lanson Le Black Reserve, a Champagne house that has held a Royal Warrant since 1900, before moving through the smoky fire tea and finishing on a bright, fruity mango blend.
The tea room itself was in full swing during our visit, and while the staff clearly had their hands full, the service never dropped, staying attentive and impressively efficient throughout.
Best for: Those who love to feel royal.
