Milan Fashion Week Men’s: Highlights from the Spring/Summer 2026 Season

Yesterday (23rd), another eagerly awaited edition of Milan Fashion Week Men’s (MFW) came to a close. Starting on the 20th of June, the event marked the opening of the international fashion calendar with the Spring/Summer 2026 collections. Renowned for setting trends and showcasing some of the world’s most influential fashion houses, this year's MFW returned with a more compact schedule — yet brimming with creativity.

With Milan back in the spotlight, menswear reclaimed its energy in the Italian capital, kicking off the European Spring/Summer 2026 season. This edition brought innovation, style, and a fresh creative spark to every look on the runway.

Vivienne Westwood: European Renaissance

After eight years away from the Milanese runways, Vivienne Westwood made a powerful return with the collection “Colazione da Andreas,” presented in an intimate setting and infused with the irreverent spirit that defines the house.

Guided by the theme “Dandy Meets Granny,” the proposal fused classic elegance with quirky retro charm, playing on contrasts between refinement and eccentricity.

Under the creative direction of Andreas Kronthaler, the collection dove into European Renaissance references, reinterpreted in a contemporary, gender-fluid way. Flowing silhouettes, sculptural volumes, and striking texture contrasts delivered a provocative show that challenges traditional codes of menswear.

Among the highlights: a sheer red tulle top embroidered with flowers and hot pink floral boxers layered over black plaid. These pieces perfectly encapsulated the collection’s bold, sensual, and theatrical tone — a true statement of free, untamed fashion, loyal to Westwood’s legacy.

Dolce & Gabbana: Daydreaming Out Loud

What happens when you daydream with your eyes wide open? For many, that might sound far-fetched — but for Dolce & Gabbana, it’s real. The brand unveiled its “Pyjama Boys” line during Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS26, and even though I have my reservations about the label, this concept intrigued me. More than that, it excited me.

Daydreaming. That’s exactly what came to mind when I saw this collection. Not only for its light, almost escapist aesthetic, but because it captured something very real: how comfort has become a priority. Not as a compromise — but as a language.

Though the brand has been somewhat stagnant in recent years — and marred by well-documented plagiarism accusations — this collection gets it right. It’s fresh, coherent, and offers a genuine desire to reconnect with the present. It made me want to see it up close. Even to wear it. Not for the label — but for the idea.

The pyjama, a longstanding element of the house’s 1990s DNA, makes a powerful comeback — not as a fleeting trend, but as a symbol of a new relationship with everyday life. It's not just about the garments, which are stunning, but about the mindset of slowing down. Being at home, but still in the world.

The loose two-piece sets, lightweight jacquard cotton, vertical stripes, and soft hues (sky blue, beige, brown, sage green...) create a sense of both visual and physical rest. And that’s worth a lot today.

With cardigans, flowing Bermuda shorts, and handcrafted crochet coats, the runway told a story of freedom and freshness — where dressing becomes an act of styled self-care. As expected, the final touch came through embroidered pyjamas, closing the show with shimmer and irreverence. A collection that proves comfort, for Dolce & Gabbana, is never synonymous with simplicity — but with attitude, charm, and refinement.

Fiorucci: Bold and Playful

Fiorucci lit up the runway with a vibrant, playful collection bursting with personality. A standout feature was the creative use of body paint, simulating printed tops and even blending into the models’ hair for a striking visual effect.

Under the direction of Francesca Murri, the brand embraced a mix of teenage romanticism, pin-up references, and unmistakable '80s flair. The catwalk was taken over by polka dots, ruffles, bubble skirts, graphic stripes and hotpants — all drenched in bold reds.

Light, relaxed tailoring appeared across all genders, balancing elegance with ease. For men, delicate jumpers, reimagined tuxedos, and mini fringe cardigans stood out, while womenswear flirted with sportswear and nautical themes, always with a dose of humour and charm.

The highlight? Painted-on outfits that played with optical illusions — a playful nod to the brand’s irreverent spirit, as if everything had stepped out of a stylish, candy-coloured rom-com.

Emporio Armani: The Italian Lion’s Timelessness

Emporio Armani delivered a collection that masterfully reaffirmed the brand’s timeless elegance — even without Giorgio Armani’s usual closing appearance, his signature was felt in every detail.

This season drew inspiration from Taznakht, a region in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains known for its rich textile and artisanal heritage. Subtle Eastern references appeared through tile-like patterns, satin finishes, and intricately woven fabrics, harmonising effortlessly with Armani’s world.

The colour palette was calm and harmonious, with sandy beiges, antique pinks, and greys enhancing the collection’s sensorial luxury. The show opened with sporty energy — nylon pieces with trims and contrast stitching evoked a stylised marathon. Gradually, the looks evolved into a more relaxed yet precisely tailored aesthetic, featuring wide-leg trousers, soft tunics, longline shirts, fringed waistcoats, and airy suiting — all combining comfort with quiet sophistication.

Prada: Subtle Yet Intense

Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear was lighter and more easy-going than usual, stepping away from a strict central concept — uncommon for Miuccia Prada’s typically provocative approach, yet still rooted in her refined and questioning gaze.

With understated elegance, the collection revisited 1960s aesthetics through tailored silhouettes, straight cuts and co-ordinated outfits reminiscent of vintage sportswear — reinterpreted with freshness and nostalgic charm.

The colour palette was mostly neutral, punctuated by bursts of bright tones that softened the sobriety with ease. Miuccia cleverly played with proportions: elongated coats contrasted with cropped trousers, creating modern and well-balanced compositions. Accessories — practical, colourful, and functional — enhanced the collection’s utilitarian appeal.

The only discordant note came from the graphic floral prints inspired by the 1970s, which felt slightly out of place. Still, the collection reaffirmed Prada’s ability to merge simplicity and sophistication with its unmistakable signature

Miguel Vieira: A Night in the Garden

Miguel Vieira invites us into a garden of shadows and refinement at MFW 26. The collection, titled “A Night in the Garden”, explores elegance through a monochromatic lens, embracing a black palette set against a backdrop where every floral detail comes to life in the stillness of the night.

It’s a poetic yet structured vision — menswear emerges with precise tailoring and black beaded flowers embroidered in shapes reminiscent of camellias and calla lilies. These elements reference nature, reinterpreted with contemporary rigour, bringing a subtle sensuality to the runway.

Footwear adorned with charms and black metal mesh necklaces adds a layer of elegant rebellion, always within the bounds of refined restraint.

A Night in the Garden is more than just an aesthetic statement. It’s a vision of European summer nights framed by shadows and blossoms, where sophistication quietly blooms.