Photos Nathalie Gabay
There are clothes made for an occasion. And then there are clothes that, even when created for a particular moment, find ways to exist long after it has passed.
It is within this space that Natan builds its Spring/Summer 2027 collection.
For the new season, Édouard Vermeulen draws from a territory he knows intimately elegance, celebration and femininity, while shifting its boundaries. Occasionwear no longer needs to wait for a wedding, a grand dinner or an event marked on the calendar.
It can simply become part of everyday life.
The proposition feels particularly coherent with the Belgian maison’s trajectory. For more than four decades, Vermeulen has developed a language grounded in femininity, elegance and sophisticated materials, while deliberately keeping Natan away from the logic of fleeting trends.
ELEGANCE IN MOTION
In SS27, nothing seems entirely willing to remain still. The collection moves through fluid tunics, fitted bustiers, generous volumes, softly tailored trousers, draping and chemisiers with foulard-like effects.
These are clothes that leave room for the body. The silhouette is not designed to confine, but to follow. Volumes open up, fabrics glide, and proportions create a continuous sense of movement.
It is a form of sophistication that feels less rigid and perhaps precisely for that reason, more contemporary.
The Natan woman does not have to choose between looking impeccable and feeling comfortable.The collection seeks to mak those two ideas coexist.
FROM THE WEDDING TO MONDAY
There is a significant shift in the way we think about occasionwear.
For a long time, certain garments belonged to a single moment: the wedding dress, the gala gown, the outfit reserved for a celebration.
Natan starts precisely from this idea in order to dismantle it another reminder that fashion is also an object of transformation, shaped by time and by society.And perhaps this is the most contemporary idea within the collection, Natan turns the occasion into a starting point, rather than a final destination.
SILK, SATIN AND LIGHT
The collection gains another dimension through its materials.
Luminous silks and rich satins meet gauzes in pastel shades, some punctuated with crystals set against nude bases, Contrast is essential.
On one side, the almost translucent delicacy of pale tones. On the other, shinier surfaces and colours that demand attention.
It is a collection built less through ornamentation than through the way light encounters fabric.
A PALETTE THAT REFUSES TO CHOOSE BETWEEN DELICACY AND INTENSITY
Colour may be one of the most compelling elements of SS27. Vermeulen begins with a family of extremely pale pinks, almost faded, placing them in dialogue with sky blue and intense aquatic turquoise.
Then the palette deepens: buttercup yellow, burgundy red, different shades of green, black, white and sky blue. The result is a kind of summer experienced in different temperatures.
There is the softness of pastels, the intensity of the sea, the depth of wine tones and the luminosity of yellow. Colour ceases to function merely as decoration and instead becomes part of the collection’s rhythm.
THE PAST APPEARS THROUGH A VEIL
Among the prints, the reference to “old documents” creates one of the collection’s most poetic images.
The idea described by the maison feels almost cinematic: as though an old image had been covered by a veil, allowing it to be seen through a translucent layer.
It is an intriguing way of engaging with the past without turning it into nostalgia.Memory appears, but it appears blurred.It is not a reproduction of the past. It is a recollection of it.
BETWEEN CEREMONY AND EVERYDAY LIFE
A series of opposites therefore runs throughout the collection:
Structure and fluidity. Transparency and coverage. Pastel and intensity. Ceremony and everyday life. Tradition and movement.
Yet Natan does not seem interested in choosing one side. It is precisely in the space between them that the collection finds its identity. This ability to work with opposites also speaks to Vermeulen’s trajectory. His background in architecture helps explain his fascination with lines, proportions and the construction of the silhouette.
Here, luxury lies in the material, the cut, the movement and in the possibility of wearing the same piece in different ways.
The idea also resonates with the broader direction of contemporary fashion: a growing emphasis on wearability, femininity and fluid materials, bringing desire closer to real life.
Natan does so without abandoning its signature.
In the end, SS27 is not simply about how to dress for an occasion.
It is about allowing the occasion to exist within everyday life.
And perhaps that is the most contemporary way of understanding elegance:
not as something that waits for the right moment to appear, but as something that follows a woman wherever she goes.
Photos Nathalie Gabay