Wine of Moldova brings Saperavi to Southwark
Some wine events ask you to nod thoughtfully and take notes (pardon the pun). This one asked you to grab a glass, pull up stage-side and fall a little bit in love with a country.
On a Tuesday in September, Wine of Moldova took over BRIX LDN on Great Guildford Street for four hours of tastings, live music, food and the odd delightful curveball. It was billed as nothing like a traditional tasting. Upon entering, nobody was doubting that.
Courtesy BRIX LDN
The room
BRIX LDN is all exposed brick and an easy atmosphere, the sort of place that makes you lower your shoulders as you walk in.
The layout was clever, too. At one end sat a stage where each winery rep took a turn at the microphone, introducing themselves, their wines and the stories behind them.
Around it, there was plenty of room to wander, which meant you could hear a producer tell their tale, then stroll over to taste the proof. Guided, never herded, and a glass always within reach.
Courtesy BRIX LDN
The wines
The best thing about the evening was the access. Wine tends to taste better when the person who made it is standing three feet away, smiling and ready to tell you exactly why the vines are planted where they are.
The line-up was wonderfully varied and the producers were generous with both their time and their pours.
And then there were the Saperavis. Inky, dark-fruited, structured and impossibly fresh, they were a joy, and it was fun to taste how each winery put its own spin on the same dramatic grape. They tasted like velvet with something to say.
Courtesy BRIX LDN
The one that stole the show
If I had to pick a favourite stop, it would be ATU Winery, and not just for the glass.
ATU is Moldova’s first urban winery. Founded in 2016, it sits right in Chișinău, the capital, which means that instead of a sprawling country estate, you get a winemaking operation squeezed into the city itself.
It is the kind of idea that sounds slightly mad until you taste the results. Everything is done by hand, from the first grapes of harvest to sticking labels on limited-edition bottles, so every drop gets proper, obsessive attention. It’s a boutique operation with a big personality.
Even better, the doors are open all year round. Founders Victor and Vlada Vutcărău, along with their winemaker, are happy to welcome visitors, walk them through the winery’s story and the region’s history, and answer questions over a glass of something special. That’s a holiday plan right there.
My own highlight was their Saperavi Codrinschi, a deep, characterful red that I kept going back to. It’s made with Codrinschi, a Moldovan variety that, according to the winery, ATU is the first and only producer to bottle.
Discovering a grape you’ve never heard of, in a glass you can’t put down, is exactly what a night like this is for.
Courtesy BRIX LDN
The pudding
Dessert came with a story attached. We were served what I believe was Cușma lui Guguță, or “Guguță’s Hat.”
It’s named after a children’s story about a young shepherd with an enormous wool hat, who dreams of keeping his whole village warm underneath it.
Thin crepes are rolled around sour cherries, stacked into a pyramid, covered in sweetened sour cream and finished with cocoa or grated chocolate.
It tasted like a creamy, fluffy cake, somewhere between the best dessert and the best Pancake Tuesday you’ve ever had. It also made me want to know the story behind everything else on the table.
Courtesy BRIX LDN
A region with something to say
Beneath all the fun, there was a clear message from the people behind it.
Stefan Iamandi, Director of the National Office of Vine and Wine of the Republic of Moldova, put it well:
“Today’s UK consumer is not simply looking for another bottle on the shelf; they’re searching for new stories, new flavours and authentic experiences. Moldova delivers all three. As one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, with a growing reputation for premium wines and distinctive spirits, we believe our offer aligns perfectly with the UK’s sophisticated and adventurous taste. The response from trade and media guests has shown that curiosity about Moldova is growing, and we are excited about the opportunities ahead.”
After an evening in the glass, I’d say the curiosity is more than justified.
The entire event was beautifully organised, brilliantly hosted and generous to the last drop, it was a gorgeous introduction to a region that deserves far more attention on British tables.
Wine of Moldova and the wineries involved should be proud. I’m already planning my next glass, and possibly my next flight.
