Chester was one of the first cities I visited after moving to the UK. My first trip was only a day visit, shortly after lockdown, but I left wanting to return and discover more of it.

Nearly 2,000 years of history make Chester one of England’s most atmospheric cities. Founded by the Romans and set close to the Welsh border, it has a timeless quality, with the River Dee flowing through the city and its remarkable Roman walls still defining the historic centre. Medieval architecture, Roman remains and elegant streets come together effortlessly, making Chester a particularly charming place to explore.

There is also a fascinating sporting tradition here. Established in 1539, Chester Racecourse is recognised as the world’s oldest operational racecourse in England and remains an important part of the city’s identity. Its calendar includes the Chester Cup, Chester Vase, Ormonde Stakes, Cheshire Oaks and Dee Stakes, bringing a sense of occasion to the city throughout the racing season.

So, when I returned to Chester, I wanted to stay rather than simply pass through. Hotel Indigo Chester proved to be the perfect base.

The boutique hotel takes its inspiration from Chester itself, drawing on the city's architecture, heritage and character while keeping the interiors distinctly contemporary. It feels sophisticated without being stuffy, with plenty of personality and a strong sense of place.

I stayed in the Edmund Kirby Room, named after the English architect responsible for Dee House, the Grade II listed building that stands on the site of Chester’s Roman amphitheatre. The room was spacious and beautifully designed, with an elegant view towards the nearby park.

The hotel's 75 rooms range from standard and deluxe rooms to themed rooms and suites, including some with balconies. The overall feeling is residential rather than corporate: a comfortable, considered space to retreat to after a day exploring the city.

But the real highlight of the stay was dinner at The Forge, the hotel's two-AA-Rosette restaurant.

The restaurant has a strong focus on British produce, wild ingredients and locally reared meat, with much of the cooking taking place over wood and charcoal. The dry-aged beef is aged on the premises, adding another layer to what is already a very produce-led experience.

Dinner was excellent.

I began with the Maple Squash Tart, served with Rosary goats' cheese and sage. It was delicate, beautifully presented and full of flavour.

For the main course, I chose the Picanha Steak, served with maitake mushrooms, roscoff onion, salsa verde and red wine sauce. For those looking to share, the restaurant offers an impressive selection of dry-aged cuts, from bone-in sirloin and heritage ribeye to fillet and barbecue beef ribs.

One of the restaurant's more memorable touches is the chance to choose your own cut of meat with the waiter. Rather than simply selecting from a menu, you can see the available cuts and decide exactly what you would like - a small detail that makes the experience feel wonderfully personal.

Dessert was a must. The Sticky Treacle Pudding, with Guinness glaze, bay leaf and vanilla ice cream, was rich, comforting and the perfect end to the meal.

What I particularly enjoyed about Hotel Indigo Chester is that it never feels disconnected from its surroundings. The city is reflected throughout the hotel, from its architecture and interiors to the subtle references to Chester's heritage, while The Forge gives the stay a distinctly gastronomic edge.

Chester is a city best experienced at a leisurely pace. Walk the ancient walls, follow the River Dee, explore the historic Rows, browse its independent shops and take time to appreciate the layers of history that make the city so distinctive.

My first visit gave me only a glimpse of Chester. This time, staying at Hotel Indigo, I had the chance to experience it properly, and it was a reminder that some places are worth returning to, especially when you give yourself the time to stay.

Rediscovering Chester with Hotel Indigo

Avesso Magazine

Rediscovering Chester with Hotel Indigo

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