A Weekend in the Dordogne
The moment you drive into the Dordogne, it feels as if you’ve stepped straight into a film. The landscape unfolds in soft layers of gold and green, where every curve of the road reveals another perfect scene — stone villages wrapped in mist, vineyards turning amber, and forests glowing with the colours of autumn. It’s cinematic in every sense, the kind of beauty that makes you slow down without even realising it.
Our weekend began with a short stop at the Caves of Lascaux, one of France’s most remarkable prehistoric treasures. Though we arrived too late for the main tour, we were still able to explore part of the site and see the astonishing reproductions of the original paintings — exact copies, made with such precision that you can almost feel the presence of those first artists from 17,000 years ago.
From there, we continued to Le Vieux Logis in Trémolat, a Relais & Châteaux property that perfectly captures the spirit of the region. Set in a small, picturesque village, it feels more like a grand family home than a hotel. My suite, tucked along the garden, was generous and warm — complete with a private sitting room ideal for autumn and winter evenings. Waiting on the table was a small bottle of local walnut liqueur, a thoughtful gesture I sadly couldn’t enjoy this time, as pregnancy adds a few beautiful limitations to the experience.
The hotel has only twenty-five rooms — from intimate attic retreats to larger deluxe suites — and each one seems to tell part of its long story. Over an apéritif, Estelle Lepers, one of the current owners, shared the history of the house: how it began in the 1950s as a simple family inn and grew gradually, year after year, with each generation adding its touch. When the previous owner passed away, the property was left as an inheritance to a few of the loyal staff who had dedicated their lives to it — Estelle being one of them. The latest renovation, led by decorator Gilles Jauffret, brought new elegance without losing the house’s soul — a delicate balance that few places manage so effortlessly. The result is timeless, charming, and deeply personal.
Dinner that evening was in the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, led by Chef Vincent Arnould. While the rest of the table enjoyed foie gras, I was served a delicate cauliflower mousse — light, warm, and full of flavour. It set the tone for the rest of the meal: local trout with watercress, potato with almond oil and caviar; Le Sandre, roasted nuts and fennel, and finally, an irresistible selection of cheeses. Breakfast the next morning was just as memorable, with an abundance of pastries, fruit, and the most perfect scrambled eggs I’ve ever had.
As we drove further through the Dordogne, every village seemed to have been lifted from a painting. We paused in the hilltop town of Domme, its medieval walls and cobbled streets overlooking the valley, before reaching our next destination — Château de la Treyne.
Perched high above the river, the château is pure storybook magic. My room, La Prison Dorée, was situated at the top of the square tower, offering sweeping views across the gardens and water. It had an adjoining lounge, two bathrooms (one with a jacuzzi bath), and a peaceful corner perfect for reading. It’s the kind of room that makes you want to unpack slowly and never leave.
Lunch on the terrace was light and elegant — chicken breast and confit leg paired with a glass of Belmont Blanc de Noirs, although I had a mocktail, followed by a pear tart with raspberry sorbet that might have been the highlight of the day.
In the afternoon, we visited the Gouffre de Padirac, one of the region’s most celebrated natural wonders. Descending into the cavern feels like entering another world: vast chambers carved by water and time, an underground river glimmering in the dark. For anyone with mobility concerns or, like me, navigating pregnancy, it’s reassuring to know there are lifts and attentive guides throughout.
The tour lasts around an hour and a half and reveals a side of the Dordogne that’s truly otherworldly. Occasionally, they even offer candlelit evening tours — something I’m already dreaming of returning for.
Dinner back at the château, prepared by Chef Stéphane Andrieux, was a perfect reflection of the house — refined but generous, thoughtful yet unpretentious. It began with pan-fried scallops and organic baby carrots scented with ginger and lemon thyme, followed by local lamb with delicate herbs. Because I had dietary restrictions (and a deep craving for tomatoes), the chef created a dish just for me: a beautiful composition of tomatoes in every texture and colour, crowned with a tomato sorbet made on the spot. It was vibrant, surprising, and unforgettable. And a lovely and delicious trout as my main. Dessert was a rich Caribbean chocolate and coffee creation with tonka bean — the kind that lingers in your memory long after the last spoonful.
The following morning, though we had to leave early for our flight, the team prepared breakfast just for us, long before service officially began. Stéphanie Gombert, the gracious owner, came herself to wish us goodbye — a small gesture that perfectly sums up what makes this region, and its people, so special.
Our weekend in the Dordogne was brief, but it left a lasting impression. Between the golden light, the history woven into every stone wall, and the warmth of its people, it felt like more than a trip — it was a glimpse of a quieter, more beautiful way of living.
I really want to go back and do it all again.
